I don’t think you’re going to get the straight detailed answer you are looking for since we are talking about a very small pool of buyers here that don’t tend to be outspoken or really involved in general community. All of them have their own reasons for buying or not buying a particular copy.
A small number and infrequent sales means high variability in final auction prices. We can’t really ask all potential buyers why or why not they are passing on particular copies. I would be interested to hear from more people who are actually currently seeking this card reply in this thread.
I get that, It’s more apparent in Pokemon for sure. That being said - the one in auction… did it look over graded? Or is it just because of the case? Does anyone have a picture of one that is worthy of 40k, so I can try to determine what is good enough. I honestly just don’t know. Every single one I’ve been presented has been ridiculed in some way (5 so far)
That being said, no one is answering my questions… was that auction a strong copy, looking past the crack ( it didn’t effect the card, atleast from the pictures), and if it isn’t is there a picture of a strong copy I can reference.
Its a normal 10. Not enough to get a bgs 10 but not bad that people would say its borderline 9/10.
People will say market value is what one off private transactions go for, usually highest price paid (true for trophy cards) but this doesnt apply for cards where multiple auctions have occured.
One impatient person doesnt create market price when 6-7 consistent prices have occured.
I had a couple reasons to want it even though it wasn’t the best example.
I was the original grader
And
I have the serial numbers before and after it.
So, for those reasons, it held more value to me but the question is, how much? I’d be comfortable at 32k and only for those two reasons. Remember, I got rid of it in the first place and kept the others for a reason…condition. It was simply weak on the spectrum. It’s been so many years I don’t recall the exact specifics though.
Can those of you who replied in this thread, who actually hold a PSA 10 1st Charizard, provide high-quality scans of your so-called pristine copies so we can compare them to the $45,000 copy listed? Curious to see the difference you guys are talking about.
What you are asking is simply unanswerable. It’s a common trend/problem right now in the hobby. I get people are passionate, but some just constantly want non-stop answers and information to situations that don’t always have one. Hence the tongue and cheek response “figure it out” (which is a reference to letterkenny btw).
Tl;dr The card has sold at 40k more than not. Any card value can vary for numerous reasons: condition, provenance, seller, location, timing, etc. It’s literally impossible to give you one answer.
Cracked cases = ungraded. Not only does it decrease consumer confidence, but submitting it for a Re-holder requires a re-grade when its cracked. Therefore even if it’s fine, it’s added risk and Psa doesn’t treat it as a graded card.
I was watching the auction myself considering buying it. Same with the other two on the market, here are my reasons for passing
The $37k one - the seller cant even simply answer a single question from me
The $45k one - white dots on the corners make it a weak 10 to me - still very reasonable
The $36k one from the auction - it looks to be a nice PSA 10, but the crack is less than desirable and I didnt want to risk PSA not-recasing it as a 10.
The auction was the best option for me until a guy I reached out to had 5 different ones for me to choose from. He provided photos of all and then I chose the thick stamped strong 10 out of the lot for $40k. The deal is not finalized yet, but just waiting on the final payment to finish to do so. To me that was a better option that the 3 that have been mentioned and the price was only marginally higher. Less risk for a card I plan to keep in my personal collection.
