what cases silvering?

dull blades in factory when being cut

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Silvering and Whitening are both the same: chipping. In Pokemon we just call them “silvering” or “whitening” because of the color that shows due to chipping. There can be chipping on the front or back from handling or time. There are also plenty of WOTC sets that have chipping right out of the pack.

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Now here’s something I know a lot about. Wotc used new blades used on mtg to cut the sheets for 1st Base. You’ll notice the quality of the cut is nice on the 1st and shadowless. They quickly dulled though which only was noticeable on the foils. They used them much longer on mtg cards without problems cause there was no foil innerlayer. Because if the urgency to get product out they just kept using them through Jungle. Many fresh pack Jungle cards are HORRENDOUS. This made them change blades, but only to less used ones that were better but not great. New blades weren’t used till Rocket. As a result, those cards are super nice.
Unless extreme like some 1st Jungles or actual after-production chipping/damage they should be considered perfectly fine and won’t normally get docked during grading.

One last observation, due to the sheets position during cutting only the face experienced the rough cut so the back edges are normally nice thought the back corners took a bit of a hit.

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What Gary said ^^^^^ is basically what I was always told and expected based on my personal observation and other peoples experiences. Silvering is a bummer, but I guess it could be worse.

This is some great info!

I’ve noticed this on a lot of BW secrets as well, even 10s I have I can see the sparkle through the borders.

Any thoughts?

Does PSA take this into account when giving a 10 grade?

Light slivering is still 10 worthy.

It’s never made sense to me that silvered cards are allowed 10’s. I’ve had some awful silvered cards get 10’s with nearly a complete albeit very thin silver border. It takes away a lot of eye appeal as compared to a proper non silvered card. I’ve never been a fan of them taking into account the lower quality of certain sets and essentially allowing weaker 10’s through.

Maybe its just a case of everyone using those double top secret jedi mind tricks though and that’s the only reason why they get through. I’ll have to look back in my history of those old submissions and see if I can crack the market shattering cheat codes for easy 10’s.

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If it has silvering it should be required to be flawless in the other 3 categories to get a 10 imo. Really bad silvering should chunk it down a couple grades

Ultra pro one touch magnetic cases are also a nice looking way to protect your cards and easy to display similarly to graded cards.

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Do graded cards with silvering have less value? E.g. would you buy a PSA 9 with silvering? Or is this regarded less desirable or less valuable?

Could’ve been it’s own thread instead of bumping a 7 year old one :pikalaugh:

To answer your question, I’d imagine since it’s factory damage, is quite an obvious one that causes diminishing eye appeal most people would value it slightly less or at least I would.

That is, if you could find another available copy for the same price or slightly more. The one without silvering would be more appealing.

Can you dumb this down for me?

Blades for cutting sheets?

I recommend to watch the whole video, it’s exceptionally informative. 6:30 is where the cutting is.

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