How much are PSA Authentic Encapsulated 1st Edition Base Set holos worth? Keep in mind they would be ungraded and in played condition but still encapsulated with the PSA Authentic label.
What are your thoughts?
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price is still dependent on condition
That’s my second set. My first one sold for $5,000, condition is pretty comparable to the last one I sold.
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Are they all junked?
I’m not sure what they would get for grades, but they would all definitely be low grades. Which is why I decided to go with the PSA Authentic route. Kinda don’t want the low grades to take away from the card
Why would it be dependent on the condition if the card would be ungraded authentic encapsulated? I mean it’s like a step up from being a raw card.
Because ultimately are you really wanting to pay a premium for cards that are in average condition just because PSA has said it’s authentic?
Of course the condition matters, mainly on the value cards, because if those cards get cracked/resubmit for grading, their value could increase.
do you think an authenticated 1st edition base set zard with a crease through the middle should have the same price as a pack fresh 1st edition base set zard which has been authenticated?
of course condition is still the driving factor for the cards price
I mean of course there’s a clear difference in the example you gave… but I was just wondering what this set would be worth considering they’d be in like played condition.
Like I know they aren’t in the best condition and I know they won’t grade well at PSA, but I really like the way the cards look encapsulated. So I went for the next best thing. Encapsulated ungraded, but still authenticated haha.
okay if you know they’re played, figure out what a played set goes for and add on X amount for authenticating fees and time/effort
Which is what I’m asking… if you don’t know the answer just say that.
If they’re played don’t bother authenticating them. Authenticated cards are a pretty niche market already and it takes a lot longer to sell vs a non graded set.
For example the set I have listed costs around $2,000 raw, so I could easily get the $2,000 for it. Grading cost for this month would be roughly $650, so to even make it worth while I’ll be waiting for a $3,500+ offer. There’s a lot more factors that go into my decision making process. But if that was the only thing I was going to sell I wouldn’t do the authenticate only set. In fact knowing what I know now, I won’t do it for at least another 5 years. (I was mainly testing the market)
I know your title says Holos only. But the point remains the same, it only changes the margins for it to be worth while. It’s still is a tough sell, and might not be worth your time.
The last thing I would tell you, make sure the cards are in the same condition. It’s a lot harder to sell a set that some of the cards are mint while the others are heavily played.
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no, you were acting as if all authenticated cards should go for the same price, and you had no concept of their individual condition having an effect of what their value would be.
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With only the info you provided I’d figure your authenticated holo set is worth about 1150.00-1250.00 max.
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Thanks Gary! I recently completed my 1st Edition Base Set and I knew the holos weren’t in the best condition so I had PSA Authenticate and Encapsulate the cards so that they wouldn’t incur any more further damage.
There aren’t very many sales of PSA “Authentic” 1st Edition Base cards and when I did my research I really couldn’t find results. So I appreciate the quoted figures you provided since that was what I was looking for.
My plan is to hold onto them for a while until it reaches the point where buyers can’t afford an actual high graded set, but would feel more comfortable buying an authentic set rather than a raw and potentially fake set.
Good idea.
I was actually the first one to authentic grade a Pokemon card. I had all the 1st base but sold the charizard a couple years back. May still have all the rest?
Really? If I thought all authenticated cards should go for the same price would I have needed to ask the question in the first place? What I asked was the value of an authenticated played set and all you could do to offer was tell me the difference between a PSA 1 and a PSA 10 quality graded card and ask me if I could recognize the difference… How is that even remotely related to the question asked? When I said, why should the condition even matter in an encapsulated authenticated card, I was hoping you’d have enough common sense to realize I was talking about the differences in rates between cards in played condition.
Why should a PSA 2 quality card cost more than a PSA 1 quality card if it’s ungraded and encapsulated in an authenticated case… Do you understand what I’m asking now? When talking about cards in played condition… a card that is “pack fresh” isn’t considered played condition. Clearly a PSA 10 quality card wouldn’t just be authenticated, but it would also be graded as well.
Please don’t be condescending if you have nothing to offer but useless information. Thanks bud
you only got your answer from gary because i drew out the relevant information from you. WE NEEDED THE CONDITION OF THE CARDS AND YOU DIDNT/DONT SEEM TO UNDERSTAND THAT
Definitely authenticate them if you are keeping the set, they may be in played condition but this will add a premium onto them. Also if you have a complete set that is another premium right there in my opinion.
As for value like Reina said do your research. There are a lot of sold listings on eBay for cards in various conditions. Determine the condition for your cards, find similar ones sold on eBay. Add the total of those up and add the cost to authenticate and a few benjys on top of that as a premium.