without the credit;)
I buylisted psa 7 1st ed charizards there because they offer more than theyre worth
but yeah TT is a bad company definitely don’t look into this
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Oh for sure. However, there is a market price for every grade on that card. As long as the grade seems appropriate, then it gives a lot of confidence to the buyer and seller.
If my card goes down in value it is because the market as a whole has decreased its valuation for PSA 7 examples of that card. If I instead bought the card raw, I might have overpaid from day 1 if I had missed micro damage.
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grading absoluetly has its place at every level and every grade, and most NM raws on ebay are not NM. I just mean if you had a psa 8 and cracked it and auctioned it raw and you were not a super small seller, it would probably be the same end price for most cards
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I agree with this. You pay for the grade. Especially with PSA on high end cards.
Yeah troll and toad is sketchy
I just mean if you had a psa 8 and cracked it and auctioned it raw and you were not a super small seller, it would probably be the same end price for most cards
This is exactly the point that I’m trying to get across. Whether one likes it or not, the market simply doesn’t pay a premium for PSA 7s and 8s.
californiamint on ebay has high end NM-M raws that often beat out psa 7-8 prices for 1st ed base and neo cards
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Absolutely. I pay above PSA 8 prices for nice-looking raw cards all the time. After looking at the card in person, some of them, of course, are actually only 5-8 quality (photos can be misleading). But some are 9-10 quality, which makes the gamble worthwhile. For really risk averse people, this may not be a good approach, but I and many others regularly do this.
Similarly, it’s a common practice (and something I’ve done extensively) to buy PSA 8s and crack them out for binder sets. PSA 8s are often cheaper than equivalent condition raw copies.
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This… PSA 7 is underrated at times, especially for non-holos. Some can be really clean and often above most eBay sellers ‘NM’ AKA not-mint. Great things to pick up for binder sets. For vintage holos I like targetting 8s, but even lower can be great cards at times. My favourite is PSA 6 with some very small dent that looks Mint otherwise. When I bought my PSA 5 Shadowless Charizard, it’s honestly in really good shape and looks great in a binder, and it was a fraction of the price of a higher grade. So it’s worth looking at lower grades from time to time, you never know what you’ll find.
@zorloth , such a good point… 8s are really the sweet spot for vintage holos for binders. My biggest issue is people’s definition of NM on eBay and else where is all over the place, and most are way worse than PSA 8. So buying & cracking out 8s is well worth it to get a clean card much more consistently on average. From sellers who are selling the raw cards, one really needs to have good pics, especially on the holos as so many are very scratched up from 20+ years of attrition.
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I think you summed it up best
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My mint Eevee fan club card was a PSA 6. Cracked it and couldn’t find any issues, I swear they got the 6-9 mixed up. So if a 6 is a junk, so be it!
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PSA has been weird lately. I’ve seen flawless cards grade a 6 too and it’s strange
I’ve heard some claim of potential ‘lazy grading’ during the backlog phase. No idea if this is true or not though. I can only imagine looking at so many cards day after day would cause someone to make a mistake from time to time. On the other hand, at times a 6 can be flawless looking other than a very small dent or other structural issue with the card, and PSA usually gives these a 6 by default it seems.
That’s true. But it also seems to me that getting 9-10 on vintage cards has become a lot tougher by PSA standards
Part of the problem here is that wear becomes exponentially minute as the grade increases. For example, the change in condition when moving from a PSA 7 to PSA 8 is not the same as the change in condition when moving from a PSA 9 to a PSA 10. Supposedly variability in wear should decrease as the grade increases (e.g., two PSA 7s may not look alike at all, but two PSA 10s should look quite similar in terms of wear), but this isn’t always the case due to the low inter-rater reliability in grading (i.e., low Cohen’s kappa if measured like in statistics).
Then add in the grading criteria of TCGPlayer (NM, LP, MP, HP, DMG), and now everyone is no longer speaking the same language.
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This means that there is an indent on the card somewhere that you aren’t seeing. It’s probably the No. 1 thing PSA needs to change regarding its grading standards. An otherwise flawless card with a tiny dent barely visible to the naked eye receives an auto 6 whereas a card with noticeable edge wear and holo scratches can receive an 8. It’s silly.
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Junk slabs arent about cards below a certain psa score. A psa 1 1st ed charizard isn’t a junk slab. A junk slab is a card that is graded and has 0 interested buyers whatsoever or is significantly cheaper than the price of grading the card in the first place. You could have a psa 9 modern common card that I would consider a junk slab.
This one is pretty great, we’ve had a number of energy cards come through. I smile when I see them because you know that card is probably really special to that person since it’s not like a traditional card you grade.
The 4.5 energy was on PWCC, so unfortunately it was a failed attempt at a flip, not someone’s special child hood card
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Oh… Oh.