IDGAF what someone did to my card before selling it to me as long as the card looks fantastic and I don’t see that anything has been done to it. If I can’t see that something has been done to it, the grading companies definitely can’t because I’m better than them. So long as the card is in the condition I buy it in, that’s all that matters and all I can ask for.
The whole “down the road things will show back up” is utter nonsense. I swear some people used a tiny $40 bottle of scratch remover in the 90’s on their car’s paint and noticed it came back after a wash That’s not how anything works anymore. I hate to say it, don’t take offense anyone, but, it shows you’ve never done manual labor. If you had, you’d know how these cards are actually made, what is used to make them, and how it is they come out looking identical with near zero print flaws (unrelated to whitening, damage).
How do y’all think the jets and sprayers are maintained? They don’t just magically stay flowing perfectly. They are no different than a fuel injector.
Does everyone think the materials used are only used for cards? Are the materials any different than what is used to color and coat anything? Do artists use a brush once then toss it because it cannot be cleaned without destroying the next stroke? I’d also ask if a hardwood floor is torn up when it is dirty but, I suspect Orange Glo or Pledge will be what is thought of to clean it
With that said though, I’ve long since finished my collection and I purchased every card in near mint or better so, I’m good. There’s far more money in paint correction and it’s easier than sourcing, fixing, selling or grading and selling, for anyone spending their time doing this as a hustle. Paint correction, trim redye, and ceramic or acrylic coating takes one 8 hour day for a sedan and the bill should be $800-$1,200.
First: we have absolutely zero idea of the exact chemicals involved (probably some kind of alcohol + filler/polish, both of which are already a mix of compounds), so idk how you can be so sure about the long term effects of this shit.
Second: it may be surprising for you but cards aren’t fuel injectors or jets. The same chemical can behave differently when applied to various materials or unconventional environments.
Yeah, maybe those are perfectly fine when applied on car paint or hard plastic surfaces but 1) those aren’t meant to be looked at continuously and up close like you would with a card ; 2) you don’t know how volatile chemicals may interact with an almost sealed environment (like a sleeved card in a binder) while fermenting with the original factory gloss, various skin oils, the inks and so on.
Good for you that you have already completed your collection, but personally I would be extremely pissed off if a card I had purchased as Mint/NM (which I intend to keep for decades, not weeks!) abruptly became full of scratches again, grew mold, got weirdly dull in the holo or only god knows what
Wow, exactly as I thought. It went right over your head
What do you mean, we don’t know what chemicals are involved? Who do you think has a “proprietary formula” here? Pokemon making the cards? Because we know exactly what they use. Pokemon prints many things for many clients totally outside of cards. The cards come from “Millennium Print Group” here in the U.S. so, I know exactly what they use. I’m not surprised you don’t.
Do you mean the card products on the aftermarket? Because.. I know what’s in those too, at least the most widely known one. I know because I’ve held some in person, and knew immediately, and I know because there’s paperwork on any product sold in enough quantity on the right platform.
But.. yeah.. So, no, making cards isn’t like fuel injectors.. those inject fuel through a nozzle that aerates and regulates and a printing is… injecting ink through a nozzle that regulates and aerates. And both of these nozzles collect “trash” as part of their operation and require cleaning. They don’t just run forever Especially the print nozzles.
Even your home inkjet printer’s nozzles need cleaning. Most printers do it automatically when priming new cartridges but, there’s a setting to clean the print head just in case.
Alright.. that’s enough explaining. If you need further clarification, DM me and we can exchange numbers. Otherwise, you are capable of figuring out the rest from here.
I don’t know most of the things about cards so I actually stay out of those threads, but I got to say one thing sure here. I really don’t know most of the parts what you explained here, but this is not the tone or way to say something to other people who actually didn’t get the topic. There are 1000 better ways you could have put it, but u choose to explain it in that 1 way where you show off yourself.
This may not help you in future. Just a suggestion, you can take it or leave it.
What if PSA starts offering “restoration and grading” service? so they restore the card as good as it can be.
They add pictures to the website of how it was before and specifically state it was restored and what steps have been taken?
I think that would be fair and transparent for everyone. except idk if they would be able to crack the slab and try to resubmit (maybe even to a different company) to try to foul them?
In general i think cleaning a card i acceptable, cotton and water (maybe a tip of alcohol even?) also trying to “unbend it” by putting it in a book or whatever.
using chemicals, polishers, ink to cover white dots, or cutting the card. any physical or chemical alteration should be a no go. Allowed only if the process is clearly stated and the reparation is decleared.
For example if we think about Stamps, Grading companies would repair (even cuts) and grade the stamp. They would say exactly what was done and how it was before. These usually sell for a slight premium compared to one that is damaged in the same way but not repaired, but at a huge discount compared to a copy in a similar condition post-repair.
its a way to allow PEOPLE WHO ARE OK WITH IT to get nice cards for cheaper.
exactly, if PSA offered this and the label said ‘restored’ and they actually had a way to track they weren’t being cracked and resubbed.. I’d be fine with it. Wouldn’t use it myself but im sure some people would…
Anybody who’s polishing cards is attempting to “repair” the condition. If somebody is sending it off to get graded, it’s because they want a higher grade, therefore increasing the value.
People who alter cards don’t want the label to mention it was altered. They’re going to continue to attempt to be deceptive to make more money.
I don’t disagree, but the majority who does it to grade aren’t going to want to disclose that fact. They shouldn’t be given the options and PSA shouldn’t do it altogether.
I don’t see how that’s relevant. You can care as much as you want and it’s not going to help you. As I said, as long as I’m not able to see that there has been anything done then I do not care. It’s just a risk I’ve accepted because there is no other option. You don’t have to acknowledge that you accept that risk but, that just makes you a liar.
I don’t even sell anything worth anyone working on beforehand. Nothing but vintage bulk $1-$5 raw. I sell some ultra-modern, who tf works on ultra-modern? It‘s pretty easy to just buy the one right next to it that is perfect. One of you hacks send me an ultra modern card in anything but mint 9 and I’m opening a return:smirking_face:
considering psa doesnt accept “restored” cards that will likely never happen which is why the kurt cum purveyors have to get other ppl to submit for them
That’s not how anything works anymore. I hate to say it, don’t take offense anyone, but, it shows you’ve never done manual labor. If you had, you’d know how these cards are actually made, what is used to make them, and how it is they come out looking identical with near zero print flaws (unrelated to whitening, damage).
Especially the print nozzles.
