Uncommons and commons were printed separately on different sheets. Some had blue core while others did not.
You won’t see the blue from the edge… or if you do you’ll need a microscope or 10x loupe to see it. The Black core you may see. As @cullers said the point is that there is a light barrier within the card. But the light test is not an all encompassing test… There are usually other tell-tale signs that are far more obvious.
Im here to ask for information about base set cards not here for opinions. im not disclosing anyone, i just want to see what the general people would say. and also this is a huge world, you cant say that why in the hell would anyone do this for cheap penny cards. im sure there are people out there that will do it. but i do understand your point.
Relax guys, im here to learn not to cause any trouble. i understand if you have years of experience, it is easy for you guys to spot if a card is fake or real. but hey, sometimes there will be mistakes. i know psa has a lot of experience with cards, but they also make mistakes too. not saying a one-time thing is enough to disprove a seller, but there is that very small chance. and i just want to see what most people say. nothing against anyone. hope you will understand too
Pokemon fakes are really bad and very easy to spot. Unlike Magic where there are so many tests to proof authenticity due to sooooo many fakes, in Pokemon you just need experience.
I have no idea why cullers is being so defensive and attacking others about this whole thing - xfourpowers is just seeking information.
Instead of saying “it’s definitely real, because I can tell!” or “it must be real because it’s a common, who’d fake those‽”, don’t you think a better way to address xfourpower’s question would be to show some of your own commons that have the same see-through (no stock) properties? or perhaps to link to a blog, article, or other post that has information about these printing variants?
You (cullers) assume that us new collectors are all out to disprove the wisdom of the elders of the board when it’s obvious us newbies haven’t spent the same amount of you time in this hobby/profession. Maybe this is the 17th time you’ve seen this question - maybe just avoid beginner question threads if they bother you so much. That’s how every community is that has a combination of experts and beginners. If you’re not going to respond with information in a helpful manner, why not just stay out of the thread?
@hypernova, I’m not defensive/attacking anyone. Text isn’t easy to interpret tone, the second post on this page I did intend a bit of disdain in the second paragraph. No, I don’t think images of see through cards are helpful, I’ve already explained what that test is used for and said why it’s garbage. The ripped up images show the barrer it’s looking for there’s no ‘extra photos’ needed.
@cullers if you are kind enough to show me the different variations of base set cards i would appreciate a lot. pictures would really end this conversation once and for all. I know im asking a lot, but this would really help us newbies out there if we are planning to collect older sets. like Smpratte has said in some of his videos, there is a learning curve and with time you will gain experience about the cards.
@xfourpower you have real cards in your hand, take them and look at the text, when you have new cards you suspect aren’t real compare the texts.
If you want pictures google search them, or ask someone else for them. @scratchdesk is already looking, try him.
@cullers All right, thanks for your tips. i dont have enough base set cards to see all the different printing of the set, hopefully, @scratchdesk will provide us the pictures.
To be fair I don’t think text can be the only determiner for card authenticity either. I’ll provide photos below showing a well known fake next to an authentic card. I can understand newer folks not being able to identify a fake right out of the gate. And using the all powerful internet will result in people finding and trying the light test which is what he did, completely understandable.
I still 100% believe the cards you have are authentic, but to sooth my own curiosity I’ll look into the cards I have this weekend time permitting.
Below is an example of a Nidoking I ran through photoshop just as a quick side by side showing fonts of a fake next to a legitimate card. Old fakes could be rather convincing I suppose. Though holding a card in your hand is a lot different than looking at photos online.
@scratchdesk thanks for your time for helping me out. hope you got some time on the weekend to show us more pictures, these are really helpful to us new collectors
… I suppose this is a little late in the thread, @xfourpower did you read TCA_Gaming’s fake pokemon card guide post? I just assumed most have already read it by now… but maybe you hqven’t yet? It provides lots of the basic information about fakes.
www.ebay.com/gds/Is-my-POKEMON-Card-real-or-FAKE-/10000000177643042/g.html
Providing lots of the more “in-depth” information about what separates a real card from a fake one has the potential to cause trouble later on down the road. Not to say that smarter people won’t come up with solutions, but technological developements only make fakes easier to make. So I try avoid discussing these types of things when possible in order to protect the hobby’s intrests… just airing my thoughts.
thanks for the insights, but when i try to click on the link it said: “This listing (**********) has been removed, or this item is not available.” maybe is the mobile that giving me the wrong link
@xfourpower ok I see. Try typing this into google: “Is my POKEMON Card real or FAKE?”. It should be the second link (ebay)
Big thanks to @elftan @cullers @jkanly @scratchdesk and anyone else I might’ve missed for putting so much effort into this issue. I knew it would take an army of experts to even begin to convince @xfourpower that the cards are authentic.
Hopefully this thread can help educate others and provide a fresh update to the many generic and outdated “how to spot a fake” articles out there. There’s a lot of in-depth information here that can’t be found with a Google search.
@sizzlinshibe Are you saying The Charizard Authority’s article about how to spot fakes (the one @jkanly linked) is generic and outdated? Because that article states exactly the following:
The only exception are a few English cards printed on Japanese stock like the CD Shadowless Pikachu.
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Until scratchdesk can either confirm or deny that he has legit cards in his possession that show the same light bleed-through issue, I’m not sure how you are concluding that they are indeed legitimate cards…
They are completely legitimate… 100%. I have a shoebox almost full of various base set fakes and have every other kind of base set card so maybe when I am home I’ll upload some pictures and send them to @scratchdesk for his post (if needed). I understand the concern but there’s no need to drag on the thread as to questioning the authenticity of the exampled cards.
That would be great if you can show us some of the different kind of base set cards. this will help me and maybe other people too in the future of collecting older sets.
I mean sure, it wouldn’t make much sense faking cheap cards like these, but you can never 100% rule something out completely. I know it isn’t very likely, but maybe it’s just a personal gripe I have with having a mindset that deals with absolutes. Just because it doesn’t make sense, doesn’t mean that it’s impossible.
I know this post has already been going for a while and has probably been answered but a have just tested the same card at different points.
So here is my tests
The card i am using note it is not base set but still one of the older sets
When using an LED torch the card does not have the light bleed.
This is even when the card it sat right on top of the torch.
Using the same card above 1 inches from the phone torch and there is no light bleed .
however holding it 1 inch or closer i get complete light bleed through where i can read the pokemon through the card.
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sorry about the super long post think i have edited to work with spoiler