I have a $20k+ card collection I'm finally ready to part with. How do I sell it?

Hiya E4, wish I could say “long time lurker, first time poster” but I’ve always been a casual collector. I always knew about you guys, but you were always batting beyond what I was ever willing to pay for any individual cardboard. :slight_smile: However, I think I ended up in the price range you deal with anyways, and could really use some help / advice from the experts.

I’m in my mid-30s. I bought Pokémon cards throughout my childhood and teens, and again in my late 20s. I never bought them expecting any sort of financial return, I just liked them! I actually figured Pokémon’s popularity would eventually fade and I’d get to finish some of my favorite sets one day. I’ve realized that (1) that isn’t happening and (2) since that isn’t happening, I’m kind of over them, and might as well sell them since they are worth something.

Prior to this weekend, I never sat down and figured out the price of these cards prior to this weekend because (1) I figured I’d be either underwhelmed or overwhelmed my the value, and (2) it’d end up a lot of work. Thanks to AI, I realized I could hand off the boring and tedious work of price lookups, and I’m mostly done entering a collection of 4000-5000 unique cards into an Excel spreadsheet.

Based on TCGplayer average market value, I have a collection nominally approaching 30k. Yes, there is a lot of bulk – only 343 of 3700 cards entered so far are worth more than $20, but those 343 cards are worth ~$22,000.


(I don’t want to mention specific cards to avoid looking like I’m actively advertising, but Unseen Forces, Delta Species, Cosmic Eclipse are the three heavy hitter individual sets.)

I’ll probably start to approach but fall short when I start inputting my JP cards on top of this; I have more than a few Japanese chase cards that I’ve seen sell for fabulous valuations online.

I asked the AI to introduce a running approximation of how much more upside I’d get if I graded the more obviously high value cards. It’s giving me an upper end estimate of an additional $23,000. I looked through that and (1) it seems to be assuming every card I grade would get a 9, and (2) there are a number of anomalous eBay sales driving that estimate way too high, but I’d assume there’s at least another $10,000 in value to be unlocked if I were to go down that road? I have at least 50 cards where a PSA 10 would net me $1500–$3000 (if not more).

The problem is I don’t have a great understanding of what kind of grades I could expect. I’m not a big fan of grading, it seems like a hassle, but I wanted to be able to use the figure as a negotiation point to sell the collection as is for 30k (give or take a few thousand in either direction). However, I get the sense I need to get these cards graded to be able to ‘get a seat at the table’ for the price range I unwittingly ended up in – whether it’s at a card shop, card show, consignments service, or otherwise.

My question is a pretty simple one – where do I go from here? Or, more specifically;

  • I did try reaching out to card shops here and there in the past, but they never answered my emails and given my experience and advice I have received, I’m not keen to eagerly follow up with any of them. I’m not desperate to sell.
  • It’s been suggested I go to card shows and look for a buyer, but the idea of carrying around heavy binders in crowded expos seems like I’m asking to get robbed. Nonetheless, it does seem like an avenue worth considering and I’m not averse to it. (Should I grade my cards before going to a card show?)
  • Do I have the sort of collection where I’m a plausible client for a consignment service? Or is that sort of thing only practical for someone who has a collection of high value singles, vs bulk from packs with some heavy hitters? (Should I grade my cards before going to a consignment service?)
  • For the sake of being able to do some math about grading, I need to know what sort of grades I can expect. If my typical approach was open packs using my filthy hands instead of wearing cotton gloves, but did stick them in muh Ultra Pro binder pages more or less immediately, can I plug in PSA 8 pricing in ballpark calculators to help decide what to do next, or am I being too optimistic?
  • Anything else I’m missing and should be asking?

Finally, I am located in Ontario, Canada. That might make a difference for some bits of advice.

2 Likes

Maximising returns on raw card sales is a function of effort. The more effort you put in the more you can earn on your collection.

If you want to put in minimal effort you can send your collection raw to a consignor. If not you need to learn how to pre-grade and send for grading.


Vendors will offer you 60-80% of market price.


Yes, you can use someone like ComC or Fanatics collect. @smpratte also accepts graded consignments


I would be skeptical of any values that a general LLM gives you


Learn to pre-grade or ask for opinions in the Professional Grading Thread

33 Likes

I agree with everything banks said but also would add that it really depends on the cards. You cant trust ai to grade them correctly or even price correctly. Ideally youd look for big name cards to sell individually or potentially grade.

Im not sure ai is helping you the way you want it to or adding more work if you cant trust its outputs.

12 Likes

Yeah, seconding what everyone else has said. Using AI for this is not going to help you at all. The reason why shops will give you 60-80% of the value is because they’re going to be doing the actual work of pricing, condition checking, and valuing your collection for you––and then it’s necessary for them to have some profit margin too.

Based on what you’ve said, I think taking it to a show vendor or card store would be best. It seems like your knowledge of the Pokemon market and grading isn’t in depth (and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that!) but getting the max value out of your collection is going to take a lot of time, effort, and money. If you aren’t experienced enough to know about what grades cards will get, their values pre-and-post grading, time to get cards graded, etc. then you’re going to end up wasting that time, effort, and money. The Pokemon market is so hot and optimized now that for a raw ungraded collection you’re likely to get top dollar for not much work at all.

Shop around and see if you can get a couple offers and take the highest. Don’t make things hard on yourself, it’s never been easier to sell a collection like yours than now.

14 Likes

Honestly, list it all in an eBay lot and put it on no reserve auction with good photos, a good title, and good keywords in the description. No joke, this market is so overheated that I think this may legitimately be the way to maximize value.

For instance, the raw lots on Landry Pop this past weekend went for like 4x what I expected them to (and among those lots were Unseen Forces and Delta Species). If the cards had been graded with CGC like a lot of what was being auctioned, I think they would’ve sold for significantly less.

Whatever the auction ends up finishing at, in this market you can frankly be pretty confident that you didn’t undersell it. And this will save you a ton of time, too.

EDIT: also, depending on how good your AI prompts were, I wouldn’t trust the #s it gave you. If you prompted it very precisely using direct URLs and only 1 card per prompt, you’re probably fine. But if you just gave it a list of cards to price in one prompt, I wouldn’t trust it. I have subscriptions to all the frontier models and I just don’t trust it for research purposes yet when precision is required. AI has many incredible use cases, but this is not one of them (yet).

9 Likes

That is a little scary for me. Selling one large lot and hope the buyer doesn’t scam you

2 Likes

I’ve sold thousands of things on eBay and have literally never been scammed as a seller (except potentially with a few untracked items, but that’s not applicable here). I don’t think it’s a significant concern.

1 Like

Oh I read your advice as one large lot of all cards. I think you meant sell singles in their own listing, correct?

I would absolutely not try to sell a large lot of cards worth $30k in one listing

1 Like

No, you read it correctly before. I meant one large lot. I think the risk of being scammed is quite low.

2 Likes

I’ve also seen a lot of larger collections going for close to market price recently. What I would definitely do though is sell each era separate. It’s rare that the same person is interested in both Unseen Forces and Cosmic Eclipse at the same time, so most of the best auction deals I’ve ever got on eBay were mixed era lots. There’s always some risk of getting a bad buyer but it’s a rare occurrence and if you were to split your collection up into roughly 10 lots you should do fine.

13 Likes

Yea there are fewer bidders for a 30k lot than there would be for thirty 1k lots. All goes back to effort

7 Likes

Avoid selling as a lot on ebay if you are a new seller. Scammers target new sellers who ebay is unlikely to side when they ultimately make a dispute. Doing this carries an unacceptable risk of total loss, even if the actual chance of this happening is unlikely.

As others have said, the more work you put in the more you will get out. If you are unfamiliar with grading, grading your cards on your own without help is probably bad EV for the collection. You may wish to find someone to pay for consultation on this, it is likely worth your money.

Making an optimal decision about how to sell depends on the cards in the collection, and their condition. Not to get your hopes up, but valuing your collection at TCG NM prices may actually be doing yourself a disservice. If your collection is generally mint, a skilled pregrader could cherry pick PSA 10s and increase the value substantially. But it can also be the opposite if you’re being overly optimistic with condition.

8 Likes

Idk what the actual rules on e4 are but a brief overview pic could give a better understanding of what it is. What is worth grading and what isn’t.

I generally dislike paying for consultation or advertising when the item is set cards. Because the answer is gonna be:

Grade abc no matter what
Grade xyz if they’re perfect only
List these few as raw singles
List the rest as a bulk lot

It takes a few minutes so imo don’t pay for that. You’d only pay if someone is doing serious amounts of work for you. And the market is super hot you could sell a rock for near market price

10 Likes

To your point, it entirely depends on what the collection is - I’m hoping this is more than all modern 10-or-bust grading. But I feel like you’re approaching this from the perspective of someone who knows what they’re doing in this area, no offense to OP. This collection owner doesn’t know how to grade, so I assume they also don’t truly know what “perfect” really means.

I will say the best consulting deals are structured to only pay the consultant when they make their client more money - to me, there’s little reason to pay a flat rate up front. Consultants should put their money where their mouth is.

Knowledge that a card getting a CGC 9 would be a PSA 7, or that a random ex era reverse holo has a huge premium in a PSA 9 could pay for itself. But of course if it’s a straightforward modern collection it’s likely that none of this applies.

2 Likes

Thanks for all the replies.

I appreciate the skepticism towards using an AI for this. To get the best help, I should’ve been clearer about what I’m using it for. I am using it to help me automate fetching raw and PSA prices from TCGplayer and Pricecharting. Entering cards into a spreadsheet is one thing, but the extra step of fetching these prices in real-time is something I never would’ve done that on my own.

So that what I’m looking at is a huge html page that’s this sort of thing for all the cards I have;

The quoted market valuation is based on TCGplayer’s market prices, and the grading advice is assuming they get at least PSA8, where if {Expected value of a PSA8, based on Pricecharting} - {Expected fee for grading} is a positive number and PSA9 valuation is non-trivial, it advises to grade. I asked it to list PSA10 pricing but ignore it for advisory purposes.

I didn’t do anything to the effect of asking it to evaluate/grade any individual card. I haven’t been submitting any photos to any models, and even with them, I’d be skeptical of its output due to the sycophancy/suggestibility problem.

Yeah, it absolutely isn’t, and honestly, I don’t mind. I only really got into the cards after “Pokemania” faded. It became a solitary hobby/interest of mine during the low point of the series’ popularity. And so even when the franchise blew up again, out of habit, I continued to approach it as a solo hobby. I think that’s how I ended up having the collection of someone who you’d figure would be more clued in, but still haven’t the slightest. To this end, I really do appreciate all the responses.

Looking at PSA pricing in general, I get the impression there are a few ‘cliffs’/cutoffs. The most obvious one being that PSA10 is a sharp spike relative to PSA9s. I’m not so much wondering if I’m on that cutoffs with most cards – rather, PSA8/PSA7 seems to be another cutoff. I do recognize some horrible centering in some of my modern cards, but generally speaking, would like to know if “you can safely assume a running average of PSA8 for cards you opened from a pack and then put into a binder page” is reasonable for asking AI to tally a running thing of “(Expected value) - (PSA fee per card)”, or if any of the shuffling between pages over the years might cause edge wear or things like that and the pragmatic number is 7.

I have experience selling and buying things on eBay. I think it’s a non-starter for me for a few reasons.

No offense taken, I get it and am self-aware about not getting what this hobby is valuing as “perfect” so the valuation isn’t based on running assumptions everything is going to be valued as flawless.

I believe what I may do is submit 5 or 10 of the higher value cards that I think are in good condition (sat in binders untouched for decades) and then see what I get back. These would be cards where even a PSA 7 would have a positive return so I assume I don’t have much to lose. I did message PSA about it and they said their intake office would provide me some level of tips or advice if I go in person rather than submit by mail?

5 Likes

Yeah I’m just saying an overview shot on e4 could handle 90% of the consultation process for free. Nobody’s gonna do the selling for him but in a couple mins we could easily tell him what’s worth grading and what isn’t

5 Likes

Honestly, if you want to sell the cards anytime soon, don’t bother with grading at all (especially not with PSA). The turnaround times are crazy and you won’t get significant premiums (if any) on PSA 7s and 8s. And yes, that includes for the more expensive/desirable cards. Just sell the cards raw.

The exception to this would be for if you have any PSA 10-potential cards, because the 10 premium is extreme. But people will basically pay PSA/CGC 7-9 price for raw cards.

If you post a PSA 8-quality card raw on eBay with good photos, a description like “pulled this card from a pack and put it immediately in a sleeve, where it has been for the past x years”, put it on no reserve auction starting at $0.99, you will get PSA 8 prices.

6 Likes

Here are three examples. I’d say except for the third example (Umbreon Delta), these are cards whose conditions I’ve always been more than happy with and never second guessed, and demonstrate where I think I have some idea of what perfect is, but when something falls short, don’t quite follow how much it’d get punished in grading;

  1. Lugia ex looks great, but has a white ‘nick’ or edge whitening on the top left corner when you look at it from the back – I feel like I open cards with nicks like that right out of the pack and wouldn’t flinch. Can I still assume this is still a safe PSA8 that is in the running for a higher grade? Or is that whitening on the top left corner already damning – if so, by how much?

  1. Charizard Delta has some holo scuffing but it’s not very deep and not noticeable until I start looking for it by shining a light on it at the right angle. Am I coping?

  1. I assume Umbreon Delta must’ve been sitting loose in a stack of cards at some point, and so it has edge wear on the top. I can take it for granted it’s not a 9 or 10, but what should I account for it as? Is this potentially a 6 or 7, or is this already going to be capped at a 5?

Start with just a couple popular cards to sell on ebay to get a feel for what works and what doesn’t.

1 Like

Those 3 are cards I’d throw in the
“Grade no matter what condition” category

So yeah you definitely have some good ones. The grading company you use is up to you as everyone has their own preferences. Don’t just look at PSA = big number because turnaround times, upcharges, grading scales are all different

4 Likes