Ah that is right. Forgot that Dave is ok with a mortage. Here is a better example:
Car loan of $5,000 at 0% interest.
Student loan of $10,000 at 8% interest.
I can see the point of building momentum and having less types of debt on the plate. I am too mathematically engrained to only look at what nets you the best situation in the long run, and not this psychological stuff that Dave is pushing. I am only wired one way
I love this discussion. Personal finance really is personal, and in addition to the math, factors like risk tolerance, history with money, and other things will impact how someone approaches something. I saved up an emergency fund before taking on my employer match when I first started working, but also needed to wait 6 months before I was eligible anyways, so wasnāt a big thing.
Iām also someone who would likely make some additional housing payments before investing 25% because not having a house payment would provide me with significant peace of mind and QoL benefits.
Iām an advocate of deep freezers, the kind you can fit bodies into. If you have access to a car, sufficient space and live in a place where bargain hunting is feasible, there is a fortune to be saved.
This may either be the first āTuesday Topicā, or may just be a single question that happens to fall on a Tuesday.
For those of you that invest in your retirement accounts, do you contribute a consistent amount each paycheck, or do you tend to front or back load your contributions for the year? Please share your thought process for why you do what you do!
Consistent amount each paycheck, I just use a percentage. I think itās easier for budgeting purposes, but I also think itās easier mentally/emotionally than just dumping a bunch of money at once. Slow and steady wins the race with retirement accounts
Iām also a consistent contributor. Iāve been tempted to front load as Iāve read the historical returns are a bit better over the long term if you do, but at least for me, the less I have to think about things, the more likely I am to continue through with it.
Also avoids any cashflow things, and I believe some employer matches may be effected if you donāt contribute with each paycheck. Maybe not 100% (like if you max out your 401k near the end of the year), but think there are some restrictions out there.
This is correct. Lets say you are going for the IRS limit for 401k, call it $23k, and you front load it the first 6 months, the last 6 months you donāt get your employer match
No groundbreaking thoughts just also set amount each paycheck as a percentage. Makes it both a) more automated and b) less of an active choice pay period to pay period, kind of forced automated savings
Flat percentage every paycheck however I do boost that number significantly whenever there are corrections in he market and then reduce it back to normal later