For someone who often going out of their way to claim the younger generation is too sensitive, your threshold for what constitutes criticism seems very low. Also, even if you were to consider that criticism I don’t see how it is somehow inappropriate to question or critique our great and powerful leader.
To quote the hero of the people, acollectorsconundrum:
“i know smpratte is rly smart btw
but noone is a god”
Something with 12 copies will naturally have a range in value.
Also, where supply and demand meet will vary as well. I think a lot of people overlook this aspect. This is why I go back to my original answer: bid auctions as a format are antiquated. You have at most 10 days of exposure, even then the demand can dissipate.
With a buy it now item, you want it, you buy it, done. With an auction, you want it, you have to wait 9 days, life happens, maybe you forget to bid. Basically there is much more room for variability within the auction format.
haven’t looked at the other responses, but id value the card at around $90. Auction prices give a better indicator IF there isn’t a heated bidding war going on and if the transaction goes through. The best would be best offer listings. The worst would be BIN for many reasons including the greater influence that market saturation and liquidity play in a BIN.
To give a quick example, say there are 3 of the same card listed for $100 BIN, but say people only value that card to be worth $90. If another copy of that card goes to auction, there’s a decent chance that it will sell for Around Market value, or $90. The only time that card will sell for $100 is if someone really really wants that clefairy card and can’t wait for an auction to pop up – then they turn to BIN prices, and depending on scarcity and demand, the sale at BIN can either not affect true market value (meaning it will still only be valued at $90), or can actually increase market value (even over the point of sale of the BIN if it’s a card as sought after and scare as say rayquaza Gold star) if it’s scarce enough and liquid enough (if this is confusing, I can try to clarify).
That’s my 2 cents, but to shorten it… generally, best offer >>> auction > BIN given the card’s demand is there and that there isn’t a saturation of listings.
Edit: you should definitely consider liquidity and saturation as @gottaketchumall noted if you’re a seller (doesn’t matter as much on the buyers side) – if you don’t, you’re going to pigeonhole yourself to a value that could be on the nose or could be way off since you’re not anticipating a sale @market value in the short term, but rather in the long term (thus affecting how you price it). If you price a very illiquid card at market price today and it doesn’t sell in a year and the price drops after that year, then the market price of that card wasn’t the actual market price of that card ever, since market price would mean someone would have bought the card (that’s all to say that illiquid cards are tricky to value)
You should consider both, my answer is short because I answered this one second and my kid just woke up lol.
The shackle of context from the photo assuming that’s the only information to go off is pretty restrictive as you would usually consider more data to come to a conclusion. But based on the photo alone I would say about $90 .. two sales happened after that $399 sale, 9 days and a little over a month later. As a buyer that indicates to me $90 is more likely market value and that $399 was an outlier or illegitimate sale, especially considering the sale 9 days later was an auction. If people believed that cards market value was in line with the most recent past sale of $399 the auction would’ve ended much higher than $89. The fact that the market didn’t show confidence in the BIN price IMO dictates the current market value is around $90 not $399.
If I were biased to a higher value for whatever reason I’d say market was about $160, the average of the 4 sales.
Sensitive? Thank you. I gotta show my wife that;)
My point was, you asked for opinions. Scott wasn’t seeking out your opinion. He gave you his and your first reply was that his take was “skewed”. If you seriously wanted other people’s opinions then why critique their replies so quickly. Kinda shows you already had a strong opinion you wanted to sell and not in search of answers.
BTW…not that it matters but his reply was spot on.
Actually, it could be a limited offer. I’ve purchased many items at only a fraction of the listing price(without BO) with limited offers. But it never shows the limited offer as the selling price.
Ebay should probably do something about that, those can confuse some people.
I agree with your sentiment, PFM
What’s the point of having a discussion if you can’t debate the arguments presented? There is no point.
Asking for an opinion doesn’t automatically presuppose some unspoken agreement that you cannot refute that opinion.
Haha, I’ll never miss an opportunity to call you a snowflake Gary 
I hope you know it’s all in good jest though.
I won’t lie, you’re 100% right that I came here with preformed opinions. That doesn’t mean I wasn’t open to changing my mind (in fact, I did) but it does mean it will take a good argument to persuade me.
I will argue that you’re not being very courteous to my position here. If I have an opinion and Scott disagrees with it and types up an argument that doesn’t fully convince me, what should I do? Believe what he says anyway because he’s smpratte and he can never be wrong? Ignore him and continue believing what I want to? Or let him know why his argument wasn’t compelling to me personally and give him an opportunity to respond and to show me da wae?
Isn’t that the way debate is supposed to work? Challenge each other’s opinions until (hopefully) one side is convinced that the other side is right? Or does debate work differently on E4 where I make a thread and smpratte shares his opinion and we all just applaud because our minds have been changed?
Where is @lexleo when a thread needs him, he would be happy to have a debate 
Probably should include a picture of the current BIN options in the first pic. Your bias in the situation has impacted your presentation of the question, imo.
Of course auctions for this card are going to go low - it’s a wildly unpopular set with a somewhat unpopular (relatively speaking) pokemon. I’m sure this has been said a million times already, but if you were to put the card up for auction, you should expect auction result prices. The nature of an auction is limited exposure, limited availability, but guaranteed money within a short timeframe. This causes prices to be low if the card doesn’t lend itself to higher exposure than other cards (i.e., it isn’t a charizard, gold star, shining, or crystal card).
If you put the card up for BIN, you should expect BIN result prices. The nature of a BIN listing is more exposure (the listing can sit indefinitely), generally more availability since you’re competing vs. other BIN listings, but no guarantee of a sale at the price that you set. Generally speaking, for a PSA 10 graded card that can be considered roughly the same as other PSA 10 graded cards, your best bet at selling an item is going to be pricing the item lower than the other BIN listings.
The difference between Auction Result Prices and BIN Result Prices can be huge for some sets/cards. The more ‘unpopular’ a card is (which in turn, results in less exposure and less awareness of its auction status), the wider this gap will be. I’ve seen the same situation play out with PSA 10 shadowless nonholo rare trainers - these have sold at auction for $20-$30, but can be seen selling at BIN prices of $200+ (albeit, very rarely).
If I were to try and model a card’s expected value at auction, I’d think it’d look something like this:
where ε represents the amount of exposure the card receives (0 being no exposure, the closer you get to 1 being something akin to a PWCC auction with a good title, very popular card like Charizard 1st Ed Base, ending at a good time) and μBIN represents the average of past BIN sales [say, within a recent time frame, with the accuracy of this number increasing as the number of BIN sales being averaged increases]. Null case: Of course, if there are no BIN sales to reference, you shouldn’t expect to be able to have an idea of what price the item would bring at auction using this model.
With this model, the price that you should expect to receive from an auction is based on BIN prices, but depends on the exposure (popularity, desirability, seller) of the card. This would explain the huge price discrepancies between Auction and BIN prices that we see for some cards (e.g., this PSA 10 Expedition Clefable, PSA 10 shadowless nonholo rare trainers) but not others (e.g., a PSA 10 1st Edition Shining Charizard nails the 2k price point no matter how it’s sold - an auction for a card like this is going to have an ε near 1 almost every single time due to its popularity/desirability, which means that auction prices are pretty much bang-on with past BIN prices).
Of course, there are a ton of other variables that can have an effect on the expected value of the final auction price, e.g. market fluctuations, reputability of a seller (feedback, trimming habits), or shilling sellers, that this model doesn’t capture, but the general idea holds strong: Unless you have a card that is insanely popular/desirable, you are a reputable seller, and your listings get great visibility, you should expect that the final price of your auction is going to be less than the BIN sales price history of that same card.
I think I found the problem. You’re jealous of Scott because he’s a major success and has an adorable wife hihi.
Anyway, I guess I didn’t read this as a debate when you asked for opinions. I would have been a lot harder on you if I knew this was a debate;)
This is just impressive. Thank you!
Just thinking through various cards I’ve sold, either through BIN/Auction recently, and the model fits well.
Since the $400 sale seems to be an outlier, I’d put the value of that specific card at about $100.
I usually value both auctions and BIN similarily, though I’m cautious if it seems an item flew under the radar and sold too low or it seems it was shilled. In this case, you have 3 auctions ending in the $70-90 range so that gives a rough idea of what people are willing to pay.
I have no idea who paid $399.99 or why, but it’s a very low pop card so I’ll assume it’s a legit sale and that buyer REALLY wanted it.
About tree fiddy
Graded Power is a man of the people, giving us lowly peons a chance to own greatness. I believe most of their listings are below market value, but that’s why I like them. If I wanted to sell, I’d ignore them, and if I wanted to buy, I couldn’t rely on anyone else matching them. Toss out the outliers and buy low or sell high.
Yeah there’s no real good answer to the OP’s question. While I said $100, it’s possible the card in question is worth $150 or $200+. I just take high sales with a grain of salt just like I would if someone auctioned it off for $0.99 and some lucky person won it with 1 bid.
Niche sets that have low pop cards are very hard to value as well. I had a few Gym Heroes(Unlimited) PSA 10 holos that are similar pop to this card and while I sold one for $200 to a member here that was 2-3 cards short from completing their set, the other ones I almost had to give away. It’s also similar to Legendary Collection where you have 1 or 2 collectors that will drop $500 on a reverse common card they need, but that doesn’t determine the actual value of the card. There aren’t a dozen people lined up to pay that kind of money for it.