Low Psa grade VS Authentic grade for high value cards

This is a fair point, albeit probably not something you’d see in reality because the type of cards that get authentic only probably have very visible issues. But for the sake of argument, let’s go with this.

I mean, if the damage is so subtle that the case obscures it and you never plan on taking it out the case, does it really matter then? You may be being lied to in a way, but if you never find out and if the card brings you happiness does it really matter in the end? I realize that this argument might not work for everyone but it’s something to consider nonetheless.

But if we’re talking about the ethics of selling an authentic card to obscure damage, the truth is that no authentic card would (or should at least) net more than the value of a PSA 6. Paying a PSA 9 price for an Authentic is foolish. Just as reina said, someone decided to send that card in as authentic meaning someone made the conscious choice not to put a grade on it.

Overall, there are certainly things to be very mindful when it comes to dealing with Authentic cards but that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t exist.

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If you’re in the market for a >$50,000 card, you should probably take the time and go though the difficult process even if it has a grade. Would you buy the card as a 5 without any additional pictures? There’s lots of ways to make a 5.

it’s kind of a tough situation. Like Scott said he authenticated his Trophy Khan because of the incredibly light pressure mark that is easily missed. But Scott is basically the most upstanding pokemon collector and disclosed this everywhere including his sales page in a very transparent and visible way.

The problem comes in not disclosing that with cards that are otherwise in extremely good condition. I have a PSA 7 No. 1 trainer from 1998. It is in amazing condition besides a very similar mark that can only be seen when tilting under strong light. if I authenticated it instead it would be very hard to see this as it is extremely small and even worse along the red line on the back for the card. extremely easy to miss. If I for some reason were to sell it in an authentic state and not say anything about that small and easy to miss mark making it a 7 I think that would be extremely unethical and harmful.

Now I don’t know and don’t think there has ever been a case where something like this has happened because many collectors now take their time to do research or talk to an expert like Scott before making a major purchase. but as more and more people come into the hobby and bring lots of new money, it is something to worry about it.

For some of the reasons stated above I pregraded this authentic set and wrote my opinion on them. I wanted to know what their true condition was lest I forget. If I ever sold them it may not satisfy some but most would be thankful to know their condition.

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man that’s exactly what I would like Gary haha

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I’ve never cracked and re sent in a card but maybe in this instance it would be smart. Years ago when I did these a “6+” Blastoise or a “7” Ninetales weren’t worth very much. I was just doing this for fun and to have the first ever authentic labeled Pokemon card. But now there’s quite a value increase so maybe I should?

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OCD doesn’t always mean strive for perfection. It could very well mean all 10’s but one has a nick so it’s not satisfying or all 1’s so they’re satisfying. If that makes any sense. I don’t think people know the difference between someone with OCD and a perfectionist. If I had a set with cards in acceptable condition that makes my OCD settle, as long as I per-say get them all authenticated at the same time. Or let’s say I get them all graded and they’re all 10’s except for one. That one is in my opinion, in better condition, then I’d crack them all open and not send them in again because the whole process pisses me off. It’s somewhat of a ritual. I’d rather have all of them safely at home, then in some other state either way. It’s very difficult to explain an OCD condition. It’s like don’t trigger something for no reason.

If the card is part of a set that will have mismatched low grades, I’d prefer the Authentic designation. I just think it’s a cleaner look when displayed together since they’ll all match. But if we’re talking about single one off cards then a numerical grade every time.